When planting trees, the first thing you need to take into consideration before selecting a location is the mature height and spread of the tree. Though you could be tempted by all of the different species that are available, take the time to choose carefully, especially if you have an average size yard, because crowding spoils the growth and appearance of trees, particularly specimen trees.
It is typically most economical to plant young trees. Planting an adult tree is difficult and can be expensive if done professionally. This could justify the expense, however, in case a mature tree is badly needed for a terrace or for screening. What you are paying or may be the time it takes a smaller tree to mature.
https://hertfordshiretreesurgeons.co.uk/best-tree-stump-removal-hertfordshire/ to transplant a tree is in the early spring or late fall. It is possible to plant trees completely leaf using wilt-proof sprays that seal the leaves against moisture loss before roots are established, but this costs money and entails greater risks than buying your tree and planting it in planting season.
When planting a tree over 6 feet high, it will suffer less setback if moved with a bur lapped root ball.
Because the root system needs fertile soil when it's planted, special steps should be taken. Dig the hole 2 feet deep and at the very least 1 foot wider than the full spread of the roots in each direction. The bottom should be broken up with a pitchfork and thoroughly mixed with peat, leaf mold, loam, etc.
Manure can be used sparingly and really should only be spread on the top of the hole or it can burn the roots. The deeper you cultivate the hole, the better for the tree. Once planted, it is possible to cultivate around it however, not under the roots. If you hit a layer of building debris or clay, that is never uncommon near a house, you need to remove this layer and replace it with good soil, or on top of that, garden humus.
When you are planting a bare root seedling, you will need to protect it by "heeling in" a vacant flower bed where it can be kept before planting provided that it is dormant.
This means laying it on its side at an angle to the bottom and covering the roots with good soil. While you are ready to go on it from the soil, give it a mud bath or "puddle" it. This protects the roots from contact with air before planting and also from any air pockets which might exist around the roots after planting. After filling the hole to the depth required by the roots of the plant, flood it with water to settle the soil in the bottom; when this has drained away, place the tree in the position in which it is to grow and complete the soil around it.
Work the soil around the roots utilizing a stick or shovel handle, and be sure you can find no air pockets. Spread the roots naturally, planting the tree at around the same depth as its former location. When the hole is two-thirds, of just how full, tramp it down and fill with water again. Fill in the rest of the soil without tramping it down, in order that the water will drain towards the trunk.
A balled-and-bur lapped tree is one which has been dug with a good ball of soil in which it's been growing in, its root system is thus amply covered and protected. The ball is held in place by way of a secure covering of burlap and twine. To plant it, set the tree in a hole slightly less than it stood in the nursery. Work the soil beneath this depth, as described previously.
If the bottom is dry, fill the hole with water and let it soak in before planting. Cut the burlap at the very top once you put the tree set up, and roll it back several inches. You will plant the burlap and all. The burlap will soon rot away.
After the tree is planted you can cut it back sharply. If necessary brace the tree with wire ropes. For the initial year, the more cultivation round the tree the higher, keeping weeds away, too, with straw or mulch, in the spring and fall can help keep the moisture in the bottom.